I’ve got a feeling…
September 10, 2009, 9:15 pm
Filed under: waves

To try and recap the last three months is highly problematic, let’s cut to the highlight reel.


My progression has been and likely will always be fairly slow. I still don’t really like anything over three feet and my takeoffs are uninspiringly rough. But, for all of that, there were the great moments. Getting out back on the six to eight foot days. Catching that first wave and having a bunch of the guys yell “nice one!” Riding some pretty ugly, kind of shallow reef and keeping my board ding free. Just testing out a lot of new situations and conditions and making it out okay.

Injury catalogue: seriously black eye; broken tooth (but not an important one). Less bruising and no bad cuts, however.

New spots: at least six.

The ASP far exceeded any expectations. I’m not sure I need to see it again (other than Andy’s supposed return next year), but it made me understand in a way no video can what is possible. The after parties were overrated but the surfing was not. However, like they discuss in one of the Drive Thru movies, being close to some world class perfect waves and not being able to surf them (or, for me, having to deal with far more crowding and kooky dangerous behavior than I’m used to)… sucks.

Camp Reunion.

It was really good to see everyone again. People change, and I don’t mean that in a bad way whatsoever. Maybe the better phrase is: people grow.

It was a party of note and the weather couldn’t have been more perfect. Someone cut a deal with the universe and we had the ideal long weekend, swimming, biking, appreciating the finer qualities of Blue Moon beer.


I’m at my parents house for about ten days sorting everything out and getting nervous about starting work.

I talked to G. on the phone just now, a million miles away, and we talked about a possible upcoming visit. That would be amazing.

Leave a Comment so far
Leave a comment

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: