Big Waves and Leaky Wetsuits
August 16, 2011, 2:54 pm
Filed under: unrelated thoughts, waves | Tags:

Normal winter, slightly cool sunny days and long walks on the beach at dusk, is back. Still not enough time in the ocean – too cold, too big. Yesterday on the wild side waves were twenty to thirty foot faces, full tide, breaking hard on the rocks. Boom, boom, boom. Spectacular to watch. The weekend was back to glassy days but constant drizzle and a nagging sore throat kept me mostly out of the water. Also, three and a half years later, my wetsuit has gone colander – all the warm water runs out. Of course, forty years ago, guys didn’t have wetsuits and (apparently) just coated themselves in vaseline, so there are always options.

At the moment, avoiding laundry and other domestic duties. Worst housewife ever! Wishing someone would make me… french toast.


Cut Your Hair and Live Your Life
March 30, 2011, 11:42 am
Filed under: insight, jams, waves

Yesterday, chopped my own hair (again). It was getting long and needed a certain kind of layer. So, craft scissors plus cheap disposable razor blade and we’re off. Result? Excellent, best ever. Cutting your own hair seems like one of those things reserved for really punk rock anti establishment ladies, totally not something I’d out myself on in most circles. A number of ladies have super religious attachments, in my experience, to their salons and particular stylists and this blasphemy is better kept private. But, I’ve gone everywhere from the recommended temples to the discount beauty schools without ever finding a life changer.

To be fair, my hair is straight, there is a lot of it, and I wear it long-ish.

Salon Pros: head massage, nice smelling shampoo different from my own, pro blow dry, possibility someone will make you fancy tea and be nice to you (neither ensured), no work for me other than making an appointment and getting somewhere on time.

Cons: training does not equal aesthetic sense, costs, difficult to tell how it will wear everyday when everyday is not an extensive blow dry/straightener process, difficulty in speaking Stylist, having to travel somewhere, the internal debate about whether or not to wash and style before visiting the salon so as to assist the stylist in figuring out wtf to do with your hair.

Self Cut Tips:

-make use of a digital camera with a timer for a better view
-cut when brushed out and totally dry (probably a beauty school faux pas, whatevvvs)
-figure out ideal shapes via pictures, side profiles are esp. helpful for ideas
-think about: face shape, head shape, hair texture, hair volume
-cut with scissors first, soften with razor second
-be bold (not, like, crazy, though)*

*biggest mistake in earlier attempts at cutting – fear of cutting off too much resulting in undersized layers

This is not saying never again. I’m not anti-stylist. There are a lot of styles that are clearly Do Not Try This At Home. But I like my hair better the way I cut it myself right now. So why not?


Already a lessening participant in the online social media sphere (six years later), admittedly today a series of pictures posted by someone living somewhere that was a dream to live when I was about ten made me realize how much my life actually looks like hers right here, right now. So, inspiration, to document more for archive purposes and enjoy what’s going on right now


Adapting to a new board. Shortest ever, a find at LG’s family home. Tip: when learning to surf start dating someone in a surf-y family who allows you access to a hand-me-down quiver that equals expanding your repetoire with limited personal investment.

The venture yesterday was marred by a fin flash that could have been a lot of things. Today I read, in the local mag, about a three meter great white spotting last month right around the spot. Hello, Charlie. On the upside, the shark was apparently spotted on a day with a lot of action in the water and didn’t attempt to chow anyone (including some swimmers), so everyone was a winner. I miss my dolphins an hour up the road, though.


Listening: Opus Orange – Crystal Clear (via wolves.co.za march playlist)

Thoughts After Hearing About a Tsunami
March 14, 2011, 8:20 am
Filed under: popconsumption, waves

1) Sadness for loss of life/destruction.
2) What it would be like to be hit by a wave that powerful and how I would fare in the situation.
3) Considerations about where waves will hit producing very memorable surf.
4) Guilt about #3.

The thing is, waves are partially the product of storms or other disturbances out in the ocean. Bad weather, for us, means potentially good waves. It is hard to reconcile the outcomes.

Yesterday, a little shark cruising around my current favorite point break. I saw the fin, LG saw the shark. This happened at the same time the plug attaching my leash to the board was one big wave away from popping out. The thing about sharks is that most of them aren’t so bad or particularly dangerous, especially the little ones. Even Great Whites don’t tend to chow people until a certain maturity. But, at the end of the day, most sharks have sharp teeth and strong jaws and even a little nibble by mistake…

The plug removed, I experimented on the beach break with tiny waves and no leash. It’s been awhile, and a longboard, since I gave that a go. It feels pretty free. I’m still going to patch up my plug and put the leash back on pretty quickly.


Television stations here often play whatever they want and somehow make mistakes in what is supposed to be broadcase and what actually plays. For example, this morning the only show I would watch during the day is mysteriously absent. It may come back later this week, it may not. The weekly guide is no help, often containing any number of errors. Sometimes they accidentally play last week’s episode of any given program. It keeps it live, I guess.

tuesday, t-minus 6
March 3, 2010, 12:03 am
Filed under: waves

Craving ocean. Early morning glass-offs, used and tired muscles, wet hair, bobbing around with friends, sandy walks everywhere, night air, watching the sets in the dark from above, quiet waxing to keep the masses asleep and get the first three all on my own.

Going to get a massage, thank you benefits, but I can’t help but think if I didn’t occupy a desk chair so much things wouldn’t feel so uncomfortable.

Asparagus and mashed potatoes and a gravy-like sauce.

Oh, Hello There
January 10, 2010, 10:49 pm
Filed under: waves

[Obvious L.G. Hiatus]

December and January, so far, led to making plans. There is a question of how long I can do this/here. I think I will make it to the end of September, a one year run. I don’t really know, given where I’m going, when I will have this kind of steady, reasonable income again after that point, but I think I’m okay with the temporary indeterminacy.

I’m thinking about spending early October to late February at my home on the other side of the world. L.G. finishes his licensing exams, hopefully, at the end of November, and then will join me a while down the road for a couple months of low key surf life. Christmas away. Then we might go spend a couple of years in Aus/NZ, banking on him getting actual work and the fact I can work there for two years with the right paperwork.

Starting in October, creating opportunity to surf every day, for two and a half years. Because that is what I want to do before I’m 30.

This requires eight months of semi monastic voluntary poverty. Given how bleak this town is lately, not so impossible.

November 10, 2009, 1:24 am
Filed under: unrelated thoughts, waves

A burger slayed me yesterday. The cook [not a chef] informed me they didn’t have roast beef or corned beef because they order a whole cow at once and go from there and they were just finishing up the cow in question. There was unprocessed cheese and a square of back bacon involved; fries with the skins on.

Yesterday, conversation

“So I asked myself, what would you do? And that’s when I sent him a text message saying he was going to come over and we were going to hook up sometime within the next two days because I have needs.”

BFF on her current developing relationship. Oh man.

How p*ssed am I that my board is currently not here for a little birthday fly by night session? Very. It’s possibly my favorite ever and I need to get accurate dimensions/pictures for next time I go somewhere so I can have something like it done. Whoa technical.

The other one is safely stored overseas, although if I go back I might trade it in because I never loved that it was broader than my shoulder span and my speed too often seemed problematic. It’s in good shape and people (generally dudes) love how it looks but the glassing isn’t so hot and it hasn’t been the source of most of my good sessions. L.G. loves it on small days and small waves.

The other one I really liked is a pop out boat (not kidding) owned by a friend that seemed to have the perfect nose and lent itself to gliding over ugly reef well. Something about it worked even though it shouldn’t have, it was just a death sentence when it went for the head.

Obviously this has 100% just told you everything you knew and expected.

November 7, 2009, 5:41 am
Filed under: waves

We used to sit around making up shirt slogans.

In the hypothetical where I quit my job and sling beer for another winter off the point I am going to make one that says:

I have a boyfriend.
He surfs better than you.

Regardless to the state of my romantic situation.